This season’s makeup draws inspiration from the captivating allure of Old Hollywood, emphasizing beautifully sculpted features.
The classic glamour of yesteryear informs this season’s elegantly contoured faces and 1940s-inspired hairstyles. Bold, defined features take center stage, showcasing heart-shaped lips and sharply penciled brows against a backdrop of radiant, milky skin.
Eyes are highlighted with Blue Iris—this fall’s standout shade—along with sophisticated tones of lavender, green, and cooler blue hues. Lips boast rich reds and warm burnt oranges, while skin is delicately enhanced with caramel tones that accentuate bone structure with a shimmering gold finish.
Mastering the Illusion
Contouring is the art of applying makeup to create highlights and shadows that define the face’s features. Makeup becomes a means of optical illusion, allowing you to manipulate how features are perceived—accentuating or minimizing as desired. The concept is straightforward: use darker shades to create depth in areas you want to diminish and lighter shades to highlight areas to bring them forward.
Jonathan Hennessey, a well-respected makeup artist based in Vancouver, BC, and co-founder of NOBASURA (nobasura.com), employs contouring techniques to evoke classic looks. “The key to modernizing these classic styles lies in the application method,” Hennessey notes.
Revived Classic
This fresh take on a timeless style features smoky eyes paired with a delicate soft pink lip, reminiscent of 60s fashion icon Twiggy.
Essential Tools
To achieve flawless looks for both everyday wear and special occasions, Hennessey advises against using inexpensive applicators provided with makeup products. Instead, invest in high-quality brushes for uniform application.
Foundation Brush
For seamless application, use a small amount of foundation, applying it in gentle swirling motions over designated areas. This versatile brush can also be employed for moisturizer, cream blush, or powder application.
Concealer Brush
This tool provides precision and control for concealer application. For an even finish, blend concealer with foundation.
Powder Brush
A full, soft brush that ensures all-over powder coverage.
Eyebrow Brush
Designed for grooming and shaping brows.
Angled Brow Brush
Ideal for working with creams, powders, or liquids; perfect for shaping brows or applying eyeliner.
Small Angled Brush
This brush features an angled side for defining the crease and a flat side for sweeping color across the eyelid, making it easy to blend eyeliner and create strong eye definition.
Tapered Contouring Brush
With a design that fits the eye’s natural contour, this brush softens eyeshadow application, and is also effective for setting concealer around the nose and under the eyes, helping to prevent product buildup.
Blush Brush
This brush not only applies blush but also serves as a smaller powder brush for more delicate areas of the face. Use the flat side for a gentle flush on the cheeks, or the tip to enhance definition under the cheekbone.
Contouring Steps
Follow these guidelines to accentuate your best features:
- Apply a darker foundation shade around the hairline and under the cheekbones.
- Use a non-orange bronzing powder to add warmth and shadows beneath the cheekbones and chin.
- Highlight the inner corners of the eyes with a light shade.
- Blend harsh lines for a seamless transition from dark to light.
- Use a firm brush to create a defined line on the eyebrows, giving an “upward lift” and elongating the eye.
- Define the lips by accentuating the area above the cupid’s bow.
Ingenue
This look strikes a balance, with eyes and lips equally emphasized for a soft, understated, and playful appearance.
Vintage Elegance
This style focuses on intensifying the eyes while darkening the lips. Create smoky eyes with lighter lilac in the center of the lid, just above the iris, and balance this striking look with classic true red lips for a timeless effect.
